If you’re like me and bought a car before an iPod/mp3 jack became standard or bought a current car from a late adopting manufacturer, you want a decent way to connect your iPod to your car stereo. Enter the products from Grom Audio. I checked them out based on a recommendation from a Mazda3 forum that I frequent and liked what I saw on their website. I decided to get the Grom Audio USB/iPod interface adapter with the optional iPod control cable. On the site, they have installation instructions via pdf so you can see what it takes to install the adapter in your vehicle.  They also have step by step picture guidance and links to installation videos for about 20 different cars. Luckily for me, they had a link to a Mazda3 video someone created that outlined the steps I needed to follow.  The shipment arrived quickly and after viewing the video for my vehicle, I prepared for the installation.

Simple Installation

My plan was to install the interface inside the dash near the radio using velcro tape and run the cables out through my center console to my cup-holders where my iPod usually resides. After removing some trim and the factory radio, I inserted the adapter cable into the plug on the back of the stereo where an external CD changer would normally plug into. The interface itself has two plug holes, so I hooked up both the iPod cable as well as the 3.5mm cable that was standard with the adapter in case I want to run something else through the stereo like a GPS or phone. All in all, installation was remarkably easy although I will qualify that I am pretty handy and am comfortable taking a car apart. If you are not or if the installation instructions seem a bit overwhelming, you may want to find someone who is or throw a few bucks at a car audio installer for installation.

Easy To Use

The adapter interface for my particular car, 2006 Mazda3, allows the user to control the iPod using the steering wheel controls for the audio. While I can only change tracks up and down, it is a big upgrade compared to previous vehicles I’ve owned with a factory AUX plug that required manual iPod navigation. This feature may or may not be available for your car, so check Grom Audio’s website. Plugging the iPod into the optional iPod cable also charges it.  To play the iPod, I just switch my input mode on my car stereo to EX and the iPod starts right where I left off listening to it prior to getting into the car. When I switch the car off or change the car stereo input, the iPod pauses on the song I was last listening to.

Final Words

Having used both factory and other aftermarket interfaces before, I have to say that this is a great product. Grom Audio now has additional options for Bluetooth adapters and kits where you can plug in a USB Memory stick with MP3 music on it. If you are looking for an audio adapter to connect your music to your car stereo at a reasonable price take a look at Grom Audio.

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Jeep lovers are a unique and loyal group of people. I used to have a customer that came into my parts store that threw who knows how much money into his old ’73 Jeep Wagoneer with a 401 and never complained. He loved his Jeep, no matter how many rust spots appeared or pieces fell off. I know a lot of people like this. My favorite Jeeps, however, have to be the pickup’s.

The Willy’s Jeep hit the market in 1947 with only a 134 CID 2.2L straight 4 engine, a 3 speed manual transmission and a lot of exterior character. The iconic round headlights and the toothy Jeep grill of an era gone by are still in use today, even if they are a bit updated. That’s why when I heard that Mopar came out with a new conversion kit for turning a Wrangler into a pickup truck at the 2011 Moab Easter Jeep event, I got a bit excited. There hasn’t been a Jeep pickup since the mid-80′s when the CJ-8 Scrambler left the market.

Mopar has proposed two different kits. The first a more basic kit that mechanically inclined individuals can bolt on over a weekend and will consist of a bed liner, inner and outer body panels, a new hard top and a new bulk head. The kit is estimated to cost upwards of $4000. They also have a more complete kit they plan to offer that requires welding.

If you can weld and you have a good deal of confidence in your abilities and have time to trick your Jeep out, then may I introduce you to the American Expedition Vehicles Brute Jeep Conversion. I found this kit while researching the Mopar kit, and I got so giddy that my husband thought I won a contest. Not just some add-on panels, this kit takes your Jeep from mild to wild! The difficulty, however, can pose a challenge for the DIY’er for a few reasons. The directions call for the frame of the Wrangler to be lengthened and welded and not everyone keeps a plasma torch in the garage. But, a lot of the work can be done at home, and I bet you know a guy who does have a torch, right?

The Brute kit is unlike either Mopar kit because it comes with an assembled 14 gauge steel bed with a new tailgate versus a bed liner and body panels. It also has new fuel and brake lines to accommodate the stretching of the frame, a new hard top that increases head room and has skylights, body mounts, cab closeout, and of course, the frame extensions. The Brute kit runs $8995, but will not only transform your Jeep to a truck, it will make it unlike any other vehicle out there. According to AEV’s website, the kit can also be bought in stages to meet any budget.

Jeep lovers rejoice in the fact that you can still be as unique as you are loyal. With the variety of customization kits out there you know that your Jeep will be just that, your Jeep. No matter what your level of mechanical aptitude, you can go from a Jeep that has a difficult time hauling all your gear to a new Jeep truck that has all the space you need to get you there.

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Whether promoting a business or even a personal sense of style, advertising on a vehicle can be vital for sending a message to your local audience. Because custom painting a vehicle can be a costly and labour intensive procedure, a more effective alternative to enhancing an automobile‘s exterior is found in car or vehicle wrapping.

Instead of applying paint, a vinyl sheet can be generated with any desirable pattern to a properly-fitting application to any vehicle. While the use of vinyl signage on vehicles is hardly new, more sophisticated computer-aided graphic design software and improved printing processes have allowed projects to become much more elaborate. Today, vinyl coverage can wrap around an entire vehicle. Graphic companies such as FASTSIGNS offer solutions to businesses that can effectively turn an entire vehicle into a moving billboard. FASTSIGNS uses 3M supplied cast vinyl film produced as a 2-mil thickness making it formable to the complex contours of today’s cars and trucks. Vinyl films require heat to stimulate adhesion to a body’s surface fully setting after 12 hours within dry, temperate conditions. It is even possible to cover window surfaces (though not entirely advisable at a safety standpoint) with the vinyl skins using perorated films that leave minimal effect to the outside vehicle wraps.

One of the biggest advantages of wrapping a vehicle as opposed to painting is the work can be discarded if needs require. For businesses needing to update or upgrade their look, the simple removal of the body wrap will largely preserve the desirability of a vehicle through resale. For some businesses where commercial vehicles commonly change hands, graphics and logos can be altered with relative ease. In most cases, directed heat will remove the vinyl film from the exterior surface.

The art of car wrapping is not limited to businesses. Admiring the complex patterns that can be turned out by modern printers, custom and modified vehicle crowds are always intrigued to find lower cost solutions to dressing up their rides. Allowing customized schemes to be realized, some suggestible patterns include the simulation of carbon fiber surfaces.

There have been many popular uses of vehicle wrapping through the years as the film technology and design progressed. In NASCAR during the late 1990s, the use of wrapping a paint scheme up to a vehicle came into wide use for teams. Through a most extreme example of car wrapping in motorsports, NASCAR champion and now FOX analyst Darrell Waltrip drove a Chevrolet in 1997 honouring his 25 years in the stock car series featuring a primarily chrome shimmer. The so-called “Chrome Car” synthesized an effect deemed otherwise impractical. At the 2011 SEMA show, Raceskinz also exhibited a 2011 Ford Mustang featuring along many modifications a wrapped exterior.

The one downside to car wrapping regards longevity of the application. Three years is regarded as a minimum life expectation for a vehicle wrapping under standard vehicle usage. FASTSIGNS have indicated that some outdoor vinyl displays can last up to 5 years. Depending on conditions, it is possible for the wrapping to last longer but fading will become apparent. However, for most businesses, it seems more likely that the advertisement vessel will fall out of fashion prior to the vinyl degradation.

Providing customized vehicle advertising for a friction of a price that a paint job would cost, truck and car wrapping presents solutions for the wide range of enterprises.

Information source: FASTSIGNS

Photo source: Ford Motor Company

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If you have a Gearhead on your gift list this year and you’re clueless as to what to get him, we’ve got you covered. Below, we explain what an OBDII scanner is, why your Gearhead wants one, and go over the differences of a few units based on skill level and what they need it for.

OBD-II is an On-Board Diagnostics system originally meant for mechanics to diagnose problems with your vehicle by connecting a tool and reading a code. You know that “Check Engine” light that you’ve been ignoring in your Camry? That’s the OBD-II system telling you something’s wrong. Get your Gearhead one of these scanners below and make him fix the problem.

Somewhere below your dash (usually below the steering column,) there’s a connector for this system that connects directly to your car’s computer. In most cases, it gives you a wealth of data regarding your vehicle, from fuel economy to air/fuel ratio and everything in between. The problem is that all of this data streams out in a bunch of code, indecipherable to humans. That’s where these scanners come in. Manufacturers of these products realized that there is plenty of use for this awesome tool outside of the mechanic’s garage, and that the data it provides can be immensely useful to the everyday driver as well as the Gearhead.

Take a look at the OBDII scanners below, the features they provide, then pick one up for the wanna-be mechanic on your gift list.

Note: Only 1996 and newer are equipped with OBDII. If your car is older than that, you may want to look elsewhere for proprietary equipment.

Beginner

Not all devices that connect to the OBDII port need to be for diagnosing problems and monitoring air/fuel ratios. These products cleverly take the data provided by your ECU and transform it into useful fuel economy information, providing a real-time monitoring of you driving efficiency.

Lemur Monitors: EconoDriver

This nifty little doo-dad is relatively new to the game, and solves the problem most of these devices have – it’s not a pain in the ass to use. Attach the wireless sensor to your ODBII port in your car, sync the sensor with the keyfob, and drive. The keyfob will update on-the-fly, with your fuel economy and related data like how much it’s costing you to drive, how much you’ve wasted, and gives you a “Green Rating” – five leaf icons that lightup and turnoff based on how “Green” you’re driving. You can keep the EconoDriver attached to your keychain, which is pretty cool, that way when someone else is driving your car you get to see what sort of driving they were doing since it will update when they return.

Lemur Monitors also offer a couple other similar monitors – one called “SafeDriver,” obviously aimed at parents wanting to keep an eye on their kid’s driving habits. When your 16 year-old son gets back with the Camaro at 3AM, you get to see the maximum speed he traveled, distance he drove, and how many hard brakes occurred while he was driving. That one seems a bit “big brother” to me, but to each their own. While I was testing this one out, it was more of a video game. “I have to get the maximum speed into the triple-digits,” “I wonder how many hard brakes I can get it to register.” Safer for kids, more dangerous for irresponsible adults, it seems.

Where to Buy:
Pick up the EconoDriver at Amazon.com for $80: Lemur Vehicle Monitors EconoDriver

ScanGauge

Another plug-and-play monitor, the ScanGauge gives quite a bit more information but doesn’t require a lot of setup and configuration. You’ll start out by letting the device know some details about the vehicle you’re using it on, and from there you just find a good place to mount it. It shows up to four digital “gauges” at a time, and you can customize which ones to show. It also scans for and clears trouble codes, if you know what you’re doing. Here are the available parameters it can monitor:

* Maximum, Instant, & Average Speed
* Coolant Temperature
* Maximum and Instant RPM
* Driving Time
* Driving Distance
* Fuel Used
* Instant & Trip Fuel Economy
* Distance to Empty
* Time and Fuel to Empty
* Fuel Rate
* Battery Voltage
* Intake Air Temperature
* Manifold Pressure
* Engine Load
* Throttle Position
* Ignition Timing

It’s not wireless, which means depending on where your OBDII port is, the wire could get in your way while driving, but the idea is that you’ll have an extra dashboard at your fingertips. The ScanGauage’s screen causes a few problems with navigation – the outdated LCD matrix display causes menu obfuscation and requires the display to show abbreviations that are hard to remember due to the lack of available characters. Moving around through the menus is frustrating until you get used to it. I’m hoping the next version of ScanGauge will have a graphic LCD display.

Where to Buy:
Pick up the ScanGauge at Amazon for $160: ScanGauge II 3-in-1 Vehicle Computer

Intermediate

You don’t want to drive down to your mechanic’s garage every time that “Check Engine” light pops on, do you? Check out these two do-it-yourself diagnostic scanners that require just a bit more knowledge to operate than the Beginner-level devices.

CarCheckup

CarCheckup is a bit of a two-in-one OBDII scanner. It will scan and troubleshoot engine codes, but its primary purpose is to monitor your trips.

The idea – keep the CarCheckup attached to your OBDII connector during your (or your teenager’s) trips. Once you return home, grab it and plug it into the computer with the built-in USB connector, then log on to CarCheckup.com to upload the data. Once it gets your data it will give you individual trip data: trip time, distance, and duration; maximum speed and RPM; time spent going certain intervals of speed; as well as a count of how many times the car experienced hard (and “extreme”) acceleration or braking. It will also let you know if there were any trouble codes during the trip.

Interestingly, the device caught a trouble code in my RSX that I didn’t know about and that didn’t trigger the Check Engine light. P1078 – it listed it as a proprietary Acura code so it didn’t give me any information about it, but a quick internet search showed that I might have a problem in the near future.

Alright, so I'm a little on-edge in the morning

The trip summary is nice to glance at, but it would be nice if you could view more than one at a time. The advanced data tab is where it’s at, allowing you to compare up to four values next to each other.

Collecting and transferring data is easy, but there are a few problems. First, you can only use the web application in Internet Explorer. I don’t like IE. Also, the web interface could use some help. If you close the browser then go back to CarCheckup.com, you have to log out then log back in to get into your dashboard. If you’re trying to look at the Trip Graphs for each trip, you have to look at its Trip Summary first, then go into Trip Graphs. That’s irritating. Overall though, it gets you the data

CarCheckup is an initial $150 (direct) purchase and includes one vehicle for one year. Each additional car costs you another $25/year. It’s a good tool for the general household to have for troubleshooting codes or spying on their teenager’s driving habits, or the business owner who needs to keep track of mileage. One thing to keep an eye on – the device is about four inches long, so make sure that won’t get in the way while driving.

Where to Buy:
Pick up the CarCheckup direct for $160: CarCheckup.com

CarMD

CarMD is focused much more more on the diagnostic part of it. You don’t keep it connected to the vehicle while driving. Rather, it’s a device you store in your glove box until the Check Engine light comes on. Once it does, bust out the CarMD, hook it up, and it stores the codes until you hook it up to the computer. Once you upload the codes to CarMD’s website, it tells you what the problem is most likely to be, gives you ways to fix it yourself, and about how much it will be to repair (yourself or through the mechanic.)

The biggest problem with CarMD – it won’t let you clear the trouble codes. Here’s their explanation:

It is not recommended for drivers to turn off their vehicle’s “CHECK ENGINE” light until the pending or current problem has been identified and repairs confirmed. If you are a confident do-it-yourselfer or have confirmed that the “CHECK ENGINE” light is illuminated because of a loose gas cap and wish to turn it off, we recommend purchasing a product called an OBD2 code reader or scan tool from your local auto supply store.

Right…or you could just add that feature to the device and there would be no need to purchase an extra code reader. Aside from that, it’s a great little device that I’ve found useful on multiple occasions. Depending on my mood, however, the inability to clear codes could be a deal-breaker.

CarMD costs $120 direct and you can keep up to three cars cars in your online profile (up to six scans per month.) You can scan as many cars as you’d like with the device and read their codes, but if you already have three cars in your profile you’ll have to either do your own research on the code or delete one of the cars already there. If you want to keep more cars in your profile you can also pay extra.

Expert

OBDLink & ScanXL

The Cadillac of consumer-level, inexpensive OBDII scanners. If you’re familiar with car systems and diagnotics (or even know the basics about what you’re looking at,) this is the way to go. ScanTool.net offers a few different scan tools, we used the OBDLink WiFi Scan Tool which connects to your or iPhone to use the software of your choice. OBDLink also lets you use a USB cable to connect to the laptop if that’s your thing.

The OBDLink scanner comes bundled with free software called OBDWiz for basic monitoring and diagnosing, but to get the most out of the device you’ll want to upgrade to the ScanXL software:

This software allows for in-depth analysis of what your car is doing, gives you a customizable virtual dashboard that updates in real time (have a friend drive while you’re doing this, of course,) and lets you log parameters for viewing later. ScanXL Standard is $90 direct and the Pro version gives you additional features for $130. Another option is DashCommand, which isn’t quite as in-depth as ScanXL but runs on a PC as well as iPhone, CarPC, and supports touch-screen interfaces.

If you have a Ford, GM, or Mazda, you’re in luck. ScanXL has “Enhanced Diagnostics Add-ons” for those makes for an additional $90 that “read and clear codes on powertrain, hybrid, transmission and other proprietary systems, [and] also adds thousands of new parameters and sensors for both gasoline and diesel vehicles.”

I played around with ScanXL for a while, and while is definitely a learning curve involved, I found it to be a very good tool for learning about your car. It even has a “Dyno Run” feature so you can test power before and after installing a new aftermarket part, for example. What’s cool about this kind of tool is that when something is “off” about your car, like it hesitates between 3000 and 4000 RPM for example, regular OBDII diagnostics won’t tell you anything. But with this software, you’ll be able to monitor many different parameters to see what’s off (like a funky Air/Fuel Ratio or something) when that hesitation happens so you know what to fix.

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If I can toot my own horn for a minute, I’m pretty damn good at racing games. If I’m not playing one for work (don’t laugh, it is work,) I’m playing one for fun, and I can beat most people in a multiplayer match. But Blur kicked my ass. Getting deeper into the game’s Career mode, even at Normal difficulty, things get tough.

But let’s start from the beginning. Blur is a new action racing game from the folks over at Bizarre Creations – the same guys that brought you the excellent Project Gotham Racing series. It has over 50 real, licensed cars, real-world locations, and damn good graphics. The power-ups are what really make it fun – you get your choice of eight – ranging from nitro boosts to heat-seeking balls of energy, to shields (so you can take a breather.) The most fun is had when all the drivers are in the same vicinity – things get chaotic very quickly.

Check out this hilarious trailer for the game:

So the Bizarre guys might get offended at me comparing Blur to Mario Kart, but it’s a good way to get an idea of how the game works. It’s just way more intense and fast-paced.

Start off in single player mode and you begin a Career – moving from one track to the next, completing challenges, and winning new cars. The entire reward system is based on “Fans” – basically a point system. Fans don’t really mean anything other than the number – you get them by placing in the top 3, using powerups, and getting bonuses. Anyone familiar with PGR can relate them to Kudos. Get more fans, unlock more events, unlock more cars, advance through the stages. Each series requires you to complete a certain level of requirements before facing the final one-on-one race, and this is where it gets tough about half way into career mode. For example – one challenge is that I complete a Fan Run (racing through a series of gates within the track.) To get that, I have to also place within the top 3 in the same race. Doesn’t sound hard, but the AI in this game is fast.

Different game modes add to the excitement of both single and multiplayer modes. Combat racing, time trials, destruction mode, hardcore, and more. I tend to stick with the regular combat racing; it’s the most exciting. The menus are easy to navigate, and the “Previously on Blur” feature is cool. Another interesting feature is social netwroking, allowing you to share your progress on Facebook and Twitter. Not sure how useful that is, but it’s there if that’s your thing.

Once you get used to it and move through career mode, you’ll be spending most of your time playing multiplayer. Once of the nicer things about Blur is that it allows for local splitscreen – something way too many racing games nowadays are missing. Up to four people can play at the same time on the same console. It’s not perfect – the details on the screen during splitscreen are sometimes lost, which can be devastating to your car’s well-being, and you’ll find yourself squinting to see what sort of power-up that is up ahead. But being able to play local multiplayer is worth the sacrifice. Online play is where it’s at if you’re on the couch solo. Multiple game modes and extra abilities add to the chaos, add you progress through online play (unlocking more cars and abilities) just like single player career mode. Different “rooms” pit you up against other racers that are around the same skill level as you, so at least you don’t get destroyed too badly.

So what sucks about Blur? Well, it’s putting me in my place, first of all – I think I’m going to have to knock it down to Easy mode shortly, and I really don’t want to do that. Otherwise, one thing that really bothers me is that you can’t see the track until AFTER you choose your car. You see the track name, but you don’t see the layout right away. Unless you’ve memorized the tracks, it would be helpful to see that first, that way you can choose the right car. Car classification is also weird – a Renault Megane in the same class as a Koenigsegg? A Hummer H2 keeping up with a Camaro SS? I realize it’s not a simulation racer, so make sure you pick your car based on the in-game stats rather than what would actually win. The game can also get very frustrating – sometimes it seems like the whole pack is picking on you – one direct hit after another. More than a few times I’ve been in first place for a while then I get barraged. Suddenly I’m trailing in last place and can’t even come close to catching up. Finally, the “Hardcore” multiplayer game mode is misleading – it’s just racing without powerups. Turns out it’s incredibly boring in this game.

What’s especially good about Blur? The graphics are top-notch – the Bizarre guys are really good at doing realistic effects. Gameplay is fast-paced and often chaotic. It’s a great game to pick up when a few friends are over thanks to the splitscreen mode, and there isn’t much of a learning curve beyond getting used to the weapon system. I love that they have real, licensed cars playable and not some cars the developers designed based on real cars. Especially as a car lover, it helps to bring an extra sense of realism to the game. The tracks are also very good, each serving its own purpose and giving a different level of difficulty. Each track needs a different type of car – you can’t run the same car on each one expecting it to perform the same. There are also plenty of modes and challenges and achieves to earn – completing everything will take some time, so there is a good amount of replay value despite the gameplay itself being relatively unchanged.

Overall, Blur is a helluva lot of fun – a fast-paced arcade-style racer with an excellent multiplayer mode. Hardcore racing game fanatics might not be all that impressed though, as there isn’t much depth involved with the gameplay. Regardless, it’s a fun game to pick up and play at any time, and a blast when someone else is there to play with you. If you’re itching for a new racing game, definitely check out Blur for Xbox 360, PS3, or PC. Head over to Amazon.com to pick up for $50 (consoles) or $30 (PC.)

Check out all the screenshots below:

disclaimer: I was sent a copy of this game by Activision for purposes of review on Xbox 360.

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Ever been popped by a red light camera? You know it instantly – try to make it through the intersection before that yellow light turns red, the bright flash behind you lets you know to expect a big fat ticket in the mail in a couple weeks. There’s no doubt these cameras are cash cows for the cities using them – every time I sit at one of these intersections, I see that camera flash two or three times during every light change – each ticket bringing in somewhere around $200. But more than a few people and some media outlets are catching on to the fact that some less-than-honest counties are going so far as to shorten yellow lights to catch more “offenders,” not only raking in more cash (of which a large portion goes straight to the camera manufacturer,) but making the streets less safe to drive on.

A company called GPS Angel intends to help you avoid those damned expensive tickets. The V4 is a nifty little device that warns you when you’re approaching a red light or speed camera. Using a built-in (you guessed it) GPS, the V4 compares your location to GPS Angel’s database of known red light and speed cameras. When you get close to a “risk area,” as they call it, the mini-hockey puck shaped device flashes and beeps letting you know to slow down or not run this particular yellow.

The GPS Angel V4 will cost you $129 with the rechargeable battery, and comes with the device and dock-type battery, USB cable, car charger, and sticky pad to keep the thing from sliding around on your dash. Although the V4 is ready to use out of the box, GPS Angel advises to keep the database up-to-date frequently to make sure you’re getting all the camera locations (they update it weekly.) The nice thing is that with the purchase of the V4, you get a lifetime camera database subscription included – many companies charge a yearly or per-use fee for downloading updated data.

GPS Angel sent me a V4 to use for this review, and for the past couple weeks I’ve had it plugged into the car. It’s easy to get started, just unpack the thing and plug it in to the car’s 12V cigar lighter. The rechargeable battery lets you unplug it to free up the lighter plug for powering other stuff and run it cordless. Indeed, the warning lights flash and the device beeps at me every time I get within 20 seconds or so of a red light camera. The buttons on top of the V4 let you set your own waypoints (like if you know about a place cops like to sit and nab speeders,) or you can set your own speed alerts so it lets you know when you go above a certain speed. It’s easy enough to update the database too – download the software, plugin the GPS Angel via USB, and click “Update.” Know about a camera that they don’t? Fill out the online form and let them know where it is – they’ll include it in the next update.

If you’re curious about where the red light or speed cameras are in your area, they have an interactive map on the website that shows you the locations. Click on the image below to check it out:

Looks like you D.C. and New York folks have one on every corner

Also be sure to check out Trapster – a (mostly) free alternative for smartphone users. It’s a similar concept but relies on real-time user reporting to give you updates. Only thing I don’t like is that it requires you to mount your phone to your windshield.

Overall, I’m impressed with the GPS Angel V4. It’s incredibly easy to use, works really well (as far as I could test,) and they don’t charge extra for updates. Price is $129 through Amazon – it has a 5-star user rating and could save you hundreds on ticket and insurance fees. Be sure to get the one with the rechargeable battery pack, otherwise you’ll have to keep it plugged in all the time. Have you used the GPS Angel (or other red light camera detector) before? Let us know what you think of it in the comments below.

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This year at the Turtle Wax Blogger’s Summit, they announced that the new lens restorer kit includes a lens sealing wipe that will help keep the lens clear for longer. You can pick this up at your local auto parts store. Good deal! The stuff works really well, and I’m glad Turtle Wax listens to their customers to the point where they make big product changes based on their feedback.

Check out a few of the pictures below, showing the headlight lens restorer demonstration given to us by Mike Schultz of Turtle Wax:

Original Headlight Condition

Taping it off and cleaning

After using the restorer kit

Another after using the restorer kit

With the kit

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This time, the NFS team treads into new territory with an all-new simulation racer – Need for Speed: Shift.

The new game features 72 cars, each mapped in pain-staking detail inside and out by the NFS team. This provides the most realistic experience possible, and it works great. There are 15 real-world locations to race including Willow Springs and Laguna Seca Raceway, which add to the realism of feeling like you’re in the race. NFS: Shift’s signature is in the incredible in-car cockpit view. While most racing games have this option available, the view obstructs sight too much to make it a good view to race from. Shift’s cockpit view is much better, allowing a good view of the track and peripheral vision, and more added realism.

After receiving my copy of the game, I completed my usual ritual staying up until 5 AM playing it until I couldn’t see straight anymore. The driver profile feature is unique in that the first time you play the game, it puts you through a test lap to gauge your driving skill and style to tailor settings and career mode to best suit you. This proves very beneficial starting the game, turning on and off traction and stability control, steering and braking assist, and racing line features. I wish it would continue to adjust these throughout the game, as I found myself turning off some of these features later on in the game, but it’s not a big deal.

The signature cockpit view is one of the coolest features in a racing game I’ve seen. Adding to the realism, the interior of the car is just as detailed and thorough as the exterior, showing each interior detail identical to the actual production car. Some of the most impressive features in this view are the 3D HUD that moves with the driver’s head, inertia, and G-forces, and the altered depth of field based on speed. When you get going at faster speeds, you get a sort of tunnel vision as your peripheral vision blurs, similar to real driving. A dynamic crash feature disorients the screen when you hit a wall or another car. Depending on the impact speed, this could be a slight blur up to a near-blackout. These seemingly small details are what makes the game so exciting.

One of the problems I’ve always had with simulation-style racing games is the lack of the sense of speed that arcade-style racers have down pat. NFS: Shift jumps that hurdle through the use of details and techniques missing from many other sim racers. The sense of speed you get while going fast is incredible, and as cheesy as it sounds, I’ve actually noticed my heart rate rising as I go faster in the game. It helps that Shift isn’t 100% simulation – it still has an arcade feel to keep it fast paced and fun while staying as realistic as possible.

Starting out, you get the choice of only a few cars – I chose the BMW 135i. As you progress, you win money, unlock more cars, invitationals, and moving up a class gets you a higher tier, and so forth. Eventually, you’ll get into the final tier that allows you to buy cars like the Pagani Zonda R (and F,) Lamborghini Reventon, Bugatti Veyron, and Koenigsegg CCX. These cars are incredibly difficult to drive well, so don’t feel bad if you get an invitational with one of them and don’t win your first few tries. Each car comes with a huge selection of modification options, ranging from suspension, nitrous, weight reduction, interior modifications, and body kits, along with a wide range of paint, vinyl, and wheel selections. Some parts (like aero and suspension mods) allow further customization, letting you adjust downforce, steering input, and other advanced settings.

Some complaints I would like to see fixed with future updates:

• Minor bugs like the infamous bouncing glitch and the flag girl at the beginning of almost every race which ends up standing in the car. I can’t believe this wasn’t worked out during testing.
• A wider selection of cars. No Ferraris are included at all, and many potentially great cars are missing. I’d love to see cars like the Nissan 300ZX TT, Lamborghini Diablo and Countach, Acura NSX, Alfa Romeo 8C, Audi R8 V10 (the V8 is included,) Audi S5, and many others. NFS: Shift’s main competitor, Forza Motorsport 3, has over 400 cars, whereas Shift has 72. Free future updates should definitely include more cars. UPDATE: The NFS team is releasing a new downloadable pack soon with four muscle cars and a Toyota Supra MKIV.
• No local multiplayer. Have a couple friends over? Too bad, you can only play multiplayer online.
• Every time you turn on the game it makes you select a language. It should save the language setting for each profile automatically.

Another thing I noticed while playing is that it would be much easier to control with something like the Xbox 360 Wireless Racing Wheel instead of the regular controller. Steering and throttle inputs need to be more precise than the standard controller can handle, so it really takes some getting used to before you can steer correctly.

Other than those few gripes, which will hopefully be corrected in the next update, Need for Speed: Shift has quickly become one of my favorite racing games. Running through and beating the game as quickly as possible shouldn’t take very long, but if you’re like me and need to get everything – all the awards, achievements, and beat every level – the game will last much longer, and you’ll have a lot of fun doing it.

Check out the teaser video:

Need for Speed: Shift is currently available for the PlayStation 3, Xbox 360, PSP, and PC and is available for a discounted price at Amazon.com.

Photo Gallery:

Many more photos…

Disclosure: Writer was provided a copy of the game by EA for purposes of review

Related posts:

1. Behind the Scenes: Need for Speed Shift 2 Unleashed
2. Need for Speed Shift Exotic Racing Series DLC
3. Laguna Seca Need for Speed Shift Video and Nissan GT-R SpecV

With the iPhone’s accelerometer controls at their disposal, developers have been making all sorts of racing games for the platform. The ability to simply tilt your iPhone right and left to steer is an incredibly useful feature, and game makers are crowding the category in the iTunes App Store with countless racing games, from bikes to slot cars, boats to supercars.

As you may know, I’m a racing game fanatic. I prefer the road-racing, realistic games with an arcade feel that use real street cars (none of that NASCAR BS.) Project Gotham Racing 4 is my current favorite, and I’m very much looking forward to Need for Speed: Shift. But when I’m away from my Xbox 360, of course I need an iPhone racing game to keep me entertained. I’ve played quite a few iPhone racing games, and while most of them are at least somewhat good, Real Racing by Firemint promises to overtake them all, and provide the most console-like racing game for the iPhone to date. That’s a big statement to make…did they pull it off?

Upon starting up, Real Racing gives you options very similar to that of console-based games. You can run a Quick Race, start Career Mode, Time Trials, edit your player’s profile, and race multi-player over Wi-Fi or Bluetooth. Once you start a race, you’ll be amazed at how detailed the graphics are for a game on the iPhone. There is no jittering or freezing when other cars are on the screen, and you can switch views from outside the car to a cockpit view. Sound is also very good with realistic engine and tire sounds, and the game includes 10 songs by indy artists, or you can listen to music from your iPhone.

Many of the other racing games I play on the iPhone suffer from poor controls using the accelerometer. Either they’re too sensitive or too numb, and it makes controlling the car frustrating. Real Racing somehow got past that limitation and provides excellent control of the car. If you still don’t like using the accelerometer, you can choose to use on-screen controls instead. By default, acceleration and braking is automatic, but you can switch them off and use on-screen throttle and brakes as well, if you want.

The gameplay itself is great, with a full-featured Career Mode with 57 events letting you unlock 48 different cars and 12 tracks, and a multi-player option to race your friends over Wi-Fi or Bluetooth. Some of the coolest things about the game are the features you won’t find on other games, such as the ability to upload your video replays to Youtube, local multiplayer, and online leaderboards.

Overall, Real Racing is without question the best iPhone racing game I’ve ever played. Firemint is releasing regular free updates to the game as well, providing more cars and more features. With their recent price drop to only $6.99, it’s a must-buy for any fan of racing games.

Buy Real Racing at iTunes (opens iTunes.)

Official Real Racing website

Also check out the trailer video below:

Disclosure: Writer was provided a copy of the game for purposes of review

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3. Ferrari F430 Force Feedback Racing Wheel

When we get a new test car to review each week, I love when they include an Instant MPG reading on their information display. More and more new cars are displaying this information built-in, which is meant to help you get the best fuel efficiency possible. And it works! I notice myself paying attention to the display, seeing how high I can keep the MPG reading, and being lighter on the throttle, which gets me much better fuel economy in everyday driving. Most cars do not have this read-out, however.

A new device on the market will add this functionality to any vehicle (1996 or newer,) along with several other useful features you won’t find built-in to any new cars. Fuel Efficiency Adviser plugs into your OBD-II port, usually under your dash, and gathers readings directly from your car’s computer. After the software connects to the car’s computer (only takes a few seconds,) the Fuel Efficiency Adviser instantly displays four readings – Instant MPG, Average MPG, Current Trip Cost ($) and Cost so far today. Mount the device somewhere convenient with the included velcro strips, and start driving as the screen updates with your fuel economy numbers. That’s not all…

Along with reading your MPG and displaying it in a useful fashion, the Fuel Efficiency Adviser can display loads of other data which you can customize, displaying up to four metrics on-screen at once:

• Speedometer
• Tachometer (RPM)
• Manifold Pressure
• Battery Voltage
• Coolant Temp.
• Intake Air Temp.
• Engine Load
• Ignition Timing
• Throttle Position
• Open/Closed Loop
• Maximum Speed
• Average Speed
• Maximum Coolant Temperature
• Maximum RPM
• Driving Time
• Driving Distance
• Fuel Used
• Distance to Empty
• Time to Empty
• Fuel to Empty

The device can also read and clear “check engine” codes, helping you diagnose problems with the car without taking it in to the mechanic.

We tested a Fuel Economy Adviser, and found it to help increase fuel economy just as much as a built-in MPG reading. The Current Trip Cost and Cost so far Today readings help remind you why you’re doing this, once you see how much driving actually costs in fuel. While you can just plug it in and go, you won’t get accurate readings until you configure some settings. Going into the menu, the first things to set are engine size, gas tank size, fuel type (gas, diesel, propane, hybrid,) and units of measure. For some reason, you can only input tank size in whole numbers, so if your tank is 16.2 gallons, round to 16.

The box it comes in has everything you need, including the cable, velcro strips, a manual, and a quick start guide. Pay attention to the quick start guide, because it quickly shows you how to set up the device and what to do on your first and second fill-ups, where you input the price and amount of fuel you pump. This helps keep the cost readings accurate.

Navigating around the different screens is unintuitive, and can get confusing when you’re trying to find a certain screen or menu, which could be better laid out in the software. The problem mostly stems from the outdated LCD matrix screen, which causes menu obfuscation and requires the display to show strange abbreviations that are hard to remember due to the lack of available characters. This needs to be replaced with a larger, slightly more expensive (but invaluably more intuitive) graphic LCD display.

Ultimately, the Fuel Efficiency Adviser is a great little device to keep you conscious of your driving habits and increase overall fuel efficiency, while providing even more functionality for those of us who like extra data. The nice thing is that it actually does help save fuel, unlike many of the devices you’ll find in the back of car magazines promising to increase fuel economy by 30% from putting a magnet around your fuel line. The manufacturer says you will make up the cost of the device in fuel savings in only 12 weeks. Without doing the math, I think it will take most drivers a bit longer than that, but it will pay for itself regardless.

Would I recommend buying it? Yeah, I think most drivers would save money if they kept it connected to the car all the time. Make sure to mount it in a place that you will be looking at it regularly, but making sure it’s not in the way of other gauges. Also be sure you place it somewhere you won’t be hitting it all the time. The picture above shows it mounted below the climate controls, and I’ve seen it mounted at the bottom of some instrument panels.

Leave a comment below if you’ve used the Fuel Efficiency Adviser or similar device, or if your car ha built-in MPG meter, and if it helps you save fuel.

Disclosure: Writer was provided a test model of product for purposes of review

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When the iPhone was introduced in June 2007, we knew it was revolutionary. It combined a phone, MP3 player, video player, internet browser, hand-held game console, and GPS all in one device, and did it with a beautiful and slick interface. What we didn’t expect, however, is that a new batch of creative developers would create applications to turn it into much more than what it already is.

A perfect example of this an app that turns your iPhone or iPod Touch into an automotive analytics platform that can provide the same OBDII-reading functionality of high-end test equipment costing far more, and it can do it wirelessly. Simply titled “Rev,” this app costs only $40 in the app store, or you can download the limited “Lite” version for free. Check out the cool 50s-style intro video to Rev below:

By itself, the app can measure 360-degree acceleration using the iPhone’s built-in accelerometer, and a GPS Track feature which will map out the track you’re driving on after one lap. To use this app to its full potential, however, you will need to buy a piece of hardware to connect to your OBDII port in all 1996 or newer cars. We used the excellent new PLX Kiwi Wifi. This tiny $150 device connects directly to your OBDII port (usually under your steering column,) and sends a Wifi signal to your iPhone, transmitting all sorts of useful data for you to analyze. In my experience, it was very easy to set up from beginning to end.

With the Rev app and Kiwi Wifi working together now, you can read a wealth of information regarding your vehicle stats. One feature is an engine code reader if your check engine light is on, which will also clear the codes for you, saving you money at a repair shop and helping to diagnose issues. The coolest thing about Rev is the real-time reading and display of all sorts of stats, including:

• Vehicle Speed
• RPM
• Fuel Consumption
• Engine Coolant Temp
• Fuel Pressure
• Calculated Engine Load
• Throttle Position
• Intake Manifold Pressure
• Air Intake Temp
• Timing Advance
• Mass Air Flow
• Fuel Level
• Barometric Pressure
• EVAP System Vapor Pressure
• Fuel Trim
• Boost

The information displays in either virtual gauge or graph form, and can be recorded. It’s worth mentioning that not all stats work on all vehicles, due to individual vehicle limitations, not the software. This is an incredible tool for those of us who like to tune our cars and measure the difference, anyone who takes their car on the track, someone diagnosing problems with their car, or someone who’s just a stats geek like me. It even features a data logging and export function that allows you to record multiple metrics simultaneously and export them via email for review. Check out the video below for a brief demo of some of its features:

For those who are serious about this or need even more functionality, the Kiwi Wifi will also let you add-on up to 32 additional sensor modules and multi or single gauges.

The Rev App and PLX Kiwi Wifi combo will cost slightly under $200 total, which is a bargain when you consider the price of many other similar-featured vehicle metrics tools. And imagine showing this to all of your gearhead friends! For us car enthusiasts, this is the best tool out there for the iPhone, and I very highly recommend it.

Download Rev for iPhone or iPod Touch

Check out the PLX Kiwi Wifi device

Read more about Rev at the DevToaster website

More screenshots below:

Disclosure: Writer was provided a copy of the app for purposes of review

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UPDATE: As of November 10, 2010, Supercar Sensation has permanently closed all operations

You’re probably familiar with supercar tours by now, which include World Class Driving, Road & Track Live, and Gotham Dream Cars. These tours let you and a small group of people take some of the wildest supercars on the road for a drive. Most of these tours travel across the US, and some travel overseas. The problem with these tours is that they range from $1500 to $6400. While this may be a fair deal for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, it’s out of most people’s price range. What most people don’t know is that there are some smaller but similar supercar tours, and they can be much easier on your wallet.

We recently had a chance to meet up with one of those groups based out of Charlotte, NC called Supercar Sensation. Started just last year, Supercar Sensation gets you into seven different supercars starting at only $200 – a much more affordable option for most. But are you going to get the same experience as the more expensive options? While it may be less expensive, could it be a lesser value than the rest?

When we met up with Supercar Sensation at a country club outside of Charlotte near Lowe’s Motor Speedway, we knew we were in the right place when a beautiful exhaust sound came up alongside of us that sounded suspiciously like a Ferrari. Indeed it was a red Ferrari F430 next to us, as he turned into the driveway and we missed our turn (that car tends to distract most people.) When we turned back around and pulled in, we were greeted by the seven cars we would be driving for the next few hours:

Group 1: Ferrari F430 & Lamborghini Gallardo
Group 2: Porsche 911 Turbo & Aston Martin V8 Vantage Roadster
Group 3: Nissan GTR, BMW M3, & Mercedes C63 AMG

On each tour, every person gets to drive one car from each group. For example, on any given tour, you could drive an F430, a 911 Turbo, and a GTR. There are three tours to choose from:

$199 One-hour tour (bring a passenger for free)
$299 Two-hour tour (bring a passenger for free)
$299 Four-hour tour

The four-hour tour is the most comparable choice to the other national offerings such as World Class Driving. We attended the four-hour tour, along with a few other noticeably excited drivers. After lunch and a short briefing about the cars, we all got assigned a car to drive and took off. The format is a typical lead-follow formation, where there is a lead car with the rest of us following behind along a pre-mapped course of good driving roads. Sadly, it was raining that day, so we all had to take it a bit easy.

I drove the 911 Turbo first, through a little bit of the city and into the rural areas. When it came time to switch drivers, we followed the rotation which had some customers driving and some riding passenger. I was riding passenger in the Nissan GT-R, and couldn’t help but tinker with the famous multi-function display, which showed performance data such as acceleration, deceleration and lateral G’s, AWD torque split, steering and throttle input, and other cool metrics normally shown only on video games and high-end test equipment. I got to drive the GT-R next, and what a blast! This $70K Nissan blew the pants off of the $130K Porsche in my opinion. After a few planned stops in places perfect for photo-ops, I finally got some seat time in the Ferrari F430. I can’t even explain what it’s like driving this car. I’ve driven faster cars, and I’ve driven prettier cars, but nothing brings the driving experience together in such a harmonious way as the Ferrari. I won’t ramble on about it, but driving the F430 alone was worth the $300.

During the last portion of the drive, a very unfortunate accident occurred. The driver of the GT-R lost control around a turn, hydroplaned (due to the rain,) and sailed off over a ditch, through an electrical pole, and into the field. The car was totaled. Somehow, the driver came out with only a scratch. We didn’t get any photos; we were too busy running through the muddy field making sure the driver was still in one piece. We finished the drive (although traveling much slower than before,) and headed back to the country club where we all chatted some more then took off. Customers on each tour also receive a personalized calendar with pictures of their drive.

We had a blast at the event, and this was a very summarized version of the day. So overall, how does this supercar tour compare to some of the bigger companies out there, was it worth the $300 price tag, and will you be getting the same experience for less money?

I’ll use our previous World Class Driving Review as an example, since we recently attended that event. The biggest difference in the two is that the cars in WCD were very high-end and exotic, while in Supercar Sensation they were on the low-end of the supercar spectrum*. WCD had cars like the Mercedes SLR McLaren, Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera, and Ferrari 430 Scuderia, which are all very rare and expensive. The SS cars were all very good, but weren’t on the same level. The price does reflect that however, as WCD is $1700 and SS is $300. Having said all that, I would recommend attending a Supercar Sensation event first, especially if you’ve never driven a supercar.

*Don’t let the “low end of the supercar spectrum” comment fool you – you still get time behind the wheel of a Ferrari, Lamborghini, Aston Martin, or Nissan GT-R – hardly an everyday occurrence.

The other major difference between the two is that with SS, you only get to drive 3 of the 7 supercars there, which means that you could miss out on driving a car that you were looking forward to. But keep in mind that if you drove all seven cars, your time in each car would be greatly reduced, which would be frustrating. The team at SS was very accommodating in getting people into the cars they wanted to drive instead of strictly following the rotation, which was very nice. I’m confident nobody left unsatisfied (except the guy who wrecked the GT-R.)

A few things that I especially liked about Supercar Sensation: First, it’s much less expensive than comparable tours. $300 to drive three supercars for 140 miles through windy country roads is a bargain, and would make a perfect gift for anybody. The $200 tour is good for those on a tighter budget. Most people never get the chance to drive a $200K Ferrari or Lamborghini, but I strongly believe everybody should try it at least once, and the low cost of this tour lets anybody do that. The route chosen for the drive was great, and really allowed us to get used to the car’s handling characteristics. The 4 hour tour is longer than most, and gave us more time in each car, as well as allowed more time for stops, giving us photo opportunities, smoke breaks, and chit-chat.

So which of the two do I think is the better value? At $200 or $300, Supercar Sensation is great for anyone, especially if you’ve never driven a supercar. It’s something you and some friends can do on a Saturday afternoon, and do it more than once. If you want to step it up a notch, an event such as WCD provides faster and more expensive supercars at a higher price point.

Along with the drives, Supercar Sensation also offers an Autocross course at Lowe’s Motor Speedway. The course costs anywhere from $40 for one lap in the BMW M3, Mercedes C63, Nissan GTR, or Porsche 911 Turbo, to $250 for 8 autocross laps, and three laps on the second course in the Lambo or Ferrari.

Remember, Supercar Sensation is based out of Charlotte, NC and have not yet made plans to expand into other markets. If you’re within a few hours’ drive of Charlotte, can come to visit, or can find a cheap flight, it’s definitely worth checking out. Otherwise there might be similar offerings in your area with a different company. I plan to attend an autocross event with SS in the near future, as well as attend another regular drive soon. I’m looking forward to meeting up with the team again.

For more pictures of the drive, check out the Photo Gallery below. For more information on Supercar Sensation, please visit their website, and check out the Driving Packages page.

Photo Gallery

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Green seems to be everyone’s favorite color now-a-days. Hybrid cars are more popular than ever, and people are starting to talk seriously about fully-electric vehicles. Along with this “energy crisis,” people are starting to buy more of their everyday products that promise to save the environment. “Organic” has become a buzzword in everything from food to laundry detergent.

Not wanting to fall behind, the car care industry has seen a few “green” products show up on the shelves. The latest is a line of “GET Green” products from Green Earth Technologies, promising to detail your car while saving the Earth at the same time.

To give everyone a chance to try out their products, they offer a 5-Pack Starter Kit. This pack includes a small 4oz bottle of each: Heavy-Duty Hydrophobic Car Wash, Organic Glass Cleaner, Brake Dust Removing Wheel Cleaner, Ultimate Tire Shine, and Brake Dust Shield. Also included in the 5-Pack is a Green Earth Technologies license plate.

Green Earth Technologies 5-Pack Car Care Kit gives you the supplies you need to get your vehicle clean while helping to protect the environment. By using advanced formulas that put the power of nanotechnology into your hands, these products do not sacrifice effectiveness to be environmentally friendly and safe for the Earth.

Check out the descriptions of each product below.

In my experience with this 5-Pack of cleaners, it works as well or better than many other car care products, and gives you the peace of mind knowing you’re not letting all sorts of harmful chemicals into the ground every time you wash your car. The glass cleaner worked very well, the wheel cleaner does a good job at removing brake dust, and the tire shine doesn’t leave the tires looking like mirrors – just a healthy gloss.

It’s nice knowing that I’m washing my car with something that I could potentially drink if I wanted to (not recommended – that would be an expensive beverage.) Not to mention you don’t get that “must wash hands now” feeling after you’re done using it.

The Get Green Car Care 5-Pack is on sale cheap at Amazon.com:

Green Earth Technologies 5 Pack Car Care Kit With License Plate

G-Wash Heavy-Duty Hydrophobic Car Wash
G-Wash Heavy Duty Hydrophobic Car Wash is a highly concentrated cleaner and degreaser which uses the power of nanotechnology and American grown base oils to tackle the most difficult cleaning jobs. G-Wash is a hydrophobic solution that causes water to “bead up” and roll off, leaving no spots. It is not a soap, detergent or petroleum solvent, but a blend of natural plant based products. G-Wash penetrates deep into dirt and oils, and then breaks them into billions of tiny particles that constantly repel each other. This makes it impossible for them to stick back together and form spots on your automobile’s surface. G-Wash even removes dirt from your wash cloth allowing it to last 10-15 times longer.

G-Wash is the “Green Alternative” for ordinary and heavy duty cleaning jobs. Because G-Wash is not a soap, detergent or petroleum solvent but a blend of natural plant based products, it is safe to wash your car in your street or driveway. G-Wash will not harm the environment by traveling into our waterways like other car wash products do.

G-Glass Organic Glass Cleaner
G-Glass Organic Glass Cleaner is a unique organic formula that creates ultra-sparkling clean glass, including windshields, mirrors and windows. G-Glass keeps surfaces cleaner much longer than other products by creating an invisible anti-static residue that reduces future dust and dirt buildup. The easy to use no-streak organic formula clings to the glass and deeply penetrates the surface, dissolving and removing hydro-carbon soils, including petroleum derivatives, fats, oils, greases, road tar, bugs, tree sap and sugars. It is ammonia free and compatible with all automotive brand urethane sealants. G-Glass is guaranteed to leave no film.

G-Glass is the “Green Alternative” for keeping glass clean. It contains 100% bio-based ingredients including alkanolamines, amino acids, plant and vegetable extracts, non-ionic surfactants, organic alcohol and plant-based fatty acids. It contains no hazardous components under OSHA definitions, and there are no poisonous effects through swallowing, skin absorption, eye contact or inhalation. Simply spray directly from the bottle and wipe. G-Glass is safe for use on any surface and will not harm tinted glass.

G-Wheel Brake Dust Removing Wheel Cleaner
G-Wheel Brake Dust Removing Wheel Cleaner is a patent-pending wheel cleaner made from American-grown base oils that puts the power of nanotechnology into your hands. G-Wheel removes the toughest baked-on brake dust and dirt buildup while leaving an incredible shine. It is safe for all wheel styles and surfaces.

G-Wheel Brake Dust Removing Wheel Cleaner is the “Green Alternative” when removing brake dust and cleaning all wheel surfaces and styles of wheel coverings. It contains 100% bio-based ingredients including alkanolamines, amino acids, plant and vegetable extracts, non-ionic surfactants, organic alcohol and plant-based fatty acids. Simply spray liberally over the entire wheel surface and allowing the product to settle for approximately 30 seconds. Then just wipe and hose off for an incredible, natural clean.

G-Tire Ultimate Tire Shine
G-Tire Ultimate Tire Shine is a patent-pending high shine cleaning formula made from American-grown base oils that puts the power of nanotechnology into your hands. G-Tire Ultimate Tire Shine not only removes the toughest dirt and road grime from the tire, but also leaves a lasting shine while protecting the tire’s surface. G-Tire Ultimate Tire Shine is safe for use on all surfaces and will not harm the wheels.

G-Tire is the “Green Alternative” when cleaning, shining and protecting all tire and rubber surfaces. It contains 100% bio-based ingredients including alkanolamines, amino acids, plant and vegetable extracts, non-ionic surfactants, organic alcohol and plant-based fatty acids. Simply spray liberally over the entire tire surface allowing product to settle for approximately 30 seconds. Then just hose off for a clean and shiny tire that provides a shield against re-deposited dirt and road grime.

G-Wheel Brake Dust Shield
G-Wheel Brake Dust Shield is a patent-pending brake dust shield that is made from American-grown base oils that puts the power of nanotechnology into your hands. It protects against the toughest baked-on brake dust and dirt buildup while leaving a shiny protective invisible nano-coating shield that resists brake dust re-coating for over 30 days. Brake dust and road grime sticks to the invisible shiny shield and can be safely rinsed away. G-Wheel Brake Dust Shield is safe for all wheel styles and surfaces and will not harm chrome wheels.

G-Wheel is the “Green Alternative” when cleaning and protecting all wheel styles. Unlike other products, it is not necessary to wear gloves, goggles or a breathing apparatus when using G-Wheel. It contains 100% bio-based ingredients including alkanolamines, amino acids, plant and vegetable extracts, non-ionic surfactants, organic alcohol and plant-based fatty acids. Simply spray liberally over the entire wheel after wheel surface has been cleaned by G-Wheel Brake Dust Remover. Let the product settle and walk away.

Disclosure: Writer was provided a product for purposes of review

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Audi R8 and Maserati GranTurismo

When’s the last time you drove a Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera? How about a Mercedes McLaren SLR? For most of us, that never happens. The lucky few who can, however, either have enough money to buy one, have a rich friend or relative, or paid an exorbitant amount of money to rent one.

Now though, a company called World Class Driving has done all the heavy lifting for you. They tour the country with five supercars at their disposal, charging customers $1495$1695 to drive each one for about 30 minutes a piece. There’s probably a stop close to you, so check out the tour schedule and see what cars will be there.

We had a chance to attend a World Class Driving (WCD) event in Charlotte, NC last month. Was it worth the $1500 price tag? Keep reading to find out…

Christine and I in the Lambo

We showed up at the Hampton Inn Southpark hotel in Charlotte at Noon – just in time for the briefing and lunch. After signing the insurance waivers and the necessary agreements (no unnecessary revving of the engines, no burnouts, no turning off traction control, etc) we went over the basics of handling a supercar vs. a regular car. We didn’t actually get out of there until around 1:30, as it seems someone in the group before us crashed one of the cars. More on that later.

As we headed outside, there sat our supercars – a Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera, Mercedes McLaren SLR, Audi R8, and a Maserati GranTurismo. Oh, the beauty. Passers-by all stopped and gawked, taking pictures and asking about the cars. This leads to my main complaint about WCD: while these cars are great, they were not the cars that I expected to be there. In fact, the list of cars changed multiple times. When we registered for World Class Driving, the list of cars were as follows:

• Ferrari 599 Fiorano
• Mercedes SLR McLaren
• Ferrari F430
• Audi R8
• Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera
• Callaway C16

When I checked a couple months before the event, they changed again:

• Ferrari 599 Fiorano or Mercedes SLR McLaren
• Ferrari 430 Scuderia
• Lamborghini LP560-4
• Callaway C16
• Maserati GranTurismo
• Spare

After being assured that the list would not be changed again, I checked the list right before the event, and it was as follows:

• Ferrari 430 Scuderia or Mercedes McLaren SLR
• Lamborghini LP560-4
• Nissan GT-R
• Audi R8
• Maserati GranTurismo
• Callaway C16

And here’s the list of what was actually there:

• Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera
• Audi R8
• Mercedes SLR McLaren
• Maserati GranTurismo

This is frustrating – if you registered because you were looking forward to a specific car (like the Lamborghini LP560-4 for example,) the list changed and you won’t be able to drive that car anymore.

Lamborghini Gallardo and Maserati GranTurismo

But there were supposed to be five cars, not four. Turns out the Ferrari 430 Scuderia was the car that was wrecked, and was still on the side of road. Another frustrating thing was that WCD said they always have a spare car in case something happens to one of them, but apparently didn’t have a backup this time. They promised all of the drivers that once they come back into the area (May 2009,) we can come back to drive the Ferrari.

After we got done taking pictures and getting briefed on our specific starting cars (we were in the Audi R8 first,) we took off from the hotel. I’ve been in love with the Audi R8 since it was unveiled, so at this point I was in heaven. Incredibly smooth, awesome engine noise, plenty of interior room, and very quick. The first half of the first drive was through traffic. Starting and stopping at stoplights, working through traffic, etc. This was rather unpleasant, since we only got the last half of the first car drive on open roads. After about 20 minutes (felt like 10,) we got out and went on to the second rotation.

The format of the drive was as follows: a lead car driven by our instructor led the way. The rest of us followed behind him, not allowed to pass him or any of the other cars. This naturally led to all of the cars falling way behind the lead car so we could step on it, catching up very quickly, then slowing down again to repeat the process.

Our second car was the Maserati GranTurismo. Very smooth and comfortable, great interior look and feel. The acceleration of the Maserati was not as responsive as the Audi, but was more of a swelling speed. An excellent touring car in every way.

Christine in the Mercedes SLR McLaren

Next up was the Mercedes SLR McLaren. Christine drove the SLR (as you can see above.) She commented on the SLR being very fast, but not having much of a personality. “It’s really fast, but it’s just another Mercedes” she remarked. An incredibly fast car, but there was something missing. Talking with the other drivers of the day, they felt the same way.

Last up was the Lamborghini Gallardo Superleggera. Now this is a supercar, and arguably the coolest car of the bunch. The bright orange finish with the “Superleggera” stripe, carbon fiber everything, and gunmetal wheels drew lots of attention, and had the best engine note of them all. A 520 horsepower V10 and active exhaust served as the radio in this Lambo. Opening the door reveals a nearly flat bare carbon fiber door panel inside. No door handle to close it, just a cloth strap to pull. All of this saves a lot of weight of course, making this Gallardo track-ready and super fun to drive. Without question my favorite car to fall back in – slowing down, cruising at 35, downshifting to 2nd gear, and flooring the throttle rewarded us with explosive acceleration, a screaming Lamborghini V10 behind us…next thing we know the car in front of us is coming up fast as the speedo reads 120 mph. Carbon-ceramic brakes slowed us down very quickly.

After the drive, we went back to the hotel and collected our gift bags, which consisted of a folder containing two photos they took before the drive, and a certificate of completion. Also in the bag was a WCD hat, some literature on World Class Driving, and a very cool laser-etched glass Ferrari 599 Fiorano model. We talked with some of the other drivers, traded business cards, thanked the WCD staff, and were on our way back home.

So let’s get what we didn’t like out of the way first. I didn’t like that they switched around the cars so much prior to the drive. I completely understand and encourage the practice of keeping the rotation fresh and offer customers the latest and greatest cars. However, when the list changes at least four times, chances are some of the customers were there for at least one specific car. If that car isn’t there anymore, they’re going to be disappointed. I was extremely disappointed when the list changed and the Audi R8 was omitted; thankfully it changed again and the R8 came back. I was also looking forward to the Nissan GT-R and Lamborghini LP560-4, which weren’t there.

Audi R8

Second, the Ferrari 430 Scuderia accident was bad for two reasons: mainly we didn’t get to drive it, and they didn’t have a backup car for us to drive. Also it seemed like the staff was more distracted with the Ferrari than they were with focusing on the customers having a good time. Yes it sucks the Ferrari got wrecked, but that’s what insurance is for.

Lastly, I didn’t like having to spend the first half of the first car driving through city traffic. I kind of feel robbed out of part of my time with the R8, since it was the open roads that were the fun parts of driving. Additionally, I wish there was more time with each car. It felt like we were kind of in a hurry to get back before the sun fell since we took off late.

So, despite the few complaints about the event, it was a great time. I look forward to returning in May to drive the Ferrari, and I hope all of the other drivers worked something out as well. For $1500, it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience for most of us, and a great gift for any car lover. Some of the other drivers there were repeat customers, and most said they would go again. I just hope they keep the freshest new cars coming in (hint: Audi R8 V10,) and with a few tweaks to their process (longer drive times, keep a backup car, etc) would be a perfect experience. Based on our time there and reactions from other drivers, I highly recommend trying out World Class Driving or giving it as a gift to any car lover.

Check out WorldClassDriving.com to view schedules, check out the cars, and book your experience. Thanks to the WCD crew for a great time, and I hope to see you at another event soon.

Check out the photos below:

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It’s funny how even video games follow trends in the automotive world. Back when import tuning became popular due mostly to the movie Fast and the Furious, games such as Need for Speed: Underground became insanely popular with the new tuning crowd.

Video games since then have evolved quite a bit, and appeal to a much wider range of car (and game) enthusiast. The new Midnight Club: Los Angeles, for example, has a wide range of available cars – tuners, muscle cars, exotics, luxury cars, and motorcycles – and all of them are customizable to your heart’s extent, if you so choose.

Being a racing game fan, I got a copy of Midnight Club: Los Angeles and have been playing the hell out of it so I could let you know if it’s worth picking up…

Midnight Club: Los Angeles is made by Rockstar Games – the same folks behind the Grand Theft Auto series. You can tell – they use the same “RAGE” gaming engine used in GTAIV. That’s not a bad thing, though – it allows for some fine control over the 40+ cars in MCLA, each reacting different to the same environment based on each car’s specifications and characteristics.

Description:

The entire city of Los Angeles is your playground as you speed through the streets, parking lots, and back alleys in Midnight Club: Los Angeles, all on your way to becoming the most notable racer in the city. As a new arrival on the racing scene, you’re going to need to earn REP for others to take you seriously, and earn the right to upgrade your ride or purchase an even better one. Reputation Points can be earned by completing any task or race in MCLA, regardless of what position you finish. Midnight Club Los Angeles features over 40 vehicles from 4 different classes. Tuner, Luxury, Exotic and Muscle cars as well as Bikes are available to race throughout the game. All cars can be fully customized in one of two garages found in the game.

Graphics

Simply put, the graphics in Midnight Club: LA are some of the best I’ve seen in a racing game. The cars (and bikes) are rendered in fine detail, interior included. Driving around the city, I’ve only noticed a few graphics pop-in or rendering errors, but they’ve been barely noticeable. Reflections and textures are beautifully done, almost photo-realistic.

One of the coolest things about the graphics is when you hit the button to get into your GPS map. The camera zooms out and up from your car, flying into the sky for a birds-eye view of the city, whether it’s night or day. This is no static image; it’s in real-time, showing rain falling if it was raining, street lights, and even the occasional plane flying by as you’re looking down on it. Going back into driving mode reverses the process, zooming down as if you were a falling rain drop, and back into the car.

Gameplay

For those who are familiar with the city of Los Angeles, you’ll notice it’s not an exact recreation. The MCLA map has many familiar landmarks and many of the same roads, but on a much smaller scale due to the immense size of the real LA. Consider it a good thing that in the game, we don’t have to drive through miles of boring residential areas. Don’t get me wrong, the city in the game is plenty big, and Rockstar Games did a great job recreating the cool parts of the city. Tons of shortcuts and secret areas are scattered about as well, adding an exciting aspect to searching around the city.

The handling and physics in the game are great – each car handles very differently. Tuners handle vastly different than exotics and muscle cars, and each have their own advantage. Handling can be tricky though, especially around turns, where it’s all too easy to slam into buildings and traffic. A nice addition to this game is the dynamic “Action” mode camera, which provides an excellent sense of speed while racing, and a cool camera-shaking effect when starting, to simulate the take-off.

Upgrading and getting new cars is similar to other racing games; you race to build up money so you can upgrade your current car’s performance and appearance, and so you can buy more cars. I like that there are real officially licensed cars in this game, instead of fictional cars like in Burnout Paradise. You can also win cars through racing for “pinks,” which leaves your money open for performance upgrades.

The game is on an open map, meaning that it doesn’t follow a set story-line and you’re free to roam around the city and challenge other racers, or following the missions that they assign you. This open gameplay is a very good thing, but leads me to my first complaint about the game: when roaming the city, it’s too easy to get the cops chasing you. Driving through an outside mall and knocking over some tables is enough to spawn a reckless driving complaint, which gets the cops looking for you. Get within a cop’s line-of-sight, and you’re in a high-speed chase. This wouldn’t normally be a problem, but you’ll find yourself losing the cops, then as you’re on your way to your next mission, getting into another chase and ending up further away from your destination than before.

And that leads me to my main complaint about the game: It’s just too damn hard! Even starting off with your first car, you’ll find yourself playing the same race a few times just to come in first. Once you get used to the easy races (denoted in green on the map,) you’ll start doing medium (yellow) races, which some are damn near impossible. On top of that, many of the challenges are series races in which you need to win (for example) two races in a row to actually win. Win the first race, lose the second or third, and you have to start the whole series over, which nearly results in a $60 controller flying through a TV screen every time. **Update, see below**

This is partially due to the “rubber-banding” effect which is used in many racing games, but seems to be excessive in this one. Rubber-banding is a term used to describe the built-in feature of the computer-controlled cars to slow down when you’re behind them, and speed up if you’re in front to keep things even. The problem with this is you can be doing an exceptional job throughout the whole race, and the other cars will stay right on your ass the whole time. Mess up once close to the end and you’re done, no matter how well you did before.

A couple more things which contribute to the exceptional difficulty of the game seem to be the superhuman driving skills of the computer-controlled cars, the excessive on-road traffic in your way, and the fact that if you upgrade your car, your opponents automatically upgrade their cars as well.

This wouldn’t be a modern racer without online play, of course, and Midnight Club: LA excels at it. Lots of online modes (including normal racing and games like capture the flag) will keep you playing for hours on end, and you can be assured that the real people you’re racing won’t be rubber-banding to win.

Customization

Customization deserves its own section, because there’s just so damn much of it. Just about everything on the car can be customized, from body kits, headlights, taillights, neons, interior colors, gauge colors, tires, doors, graphics, and of course the performance mods. Each modification takes place in your garage, and the more you race, the better modifications you unlock. You can rotate the view around your car as well as look around in the interior, and change parts in real time.

If you’re particularly proud of your creation, you can upload it to an online feature called “Rate my Ride,” which is like an online marketplace for customized cars. You can go on there and rate other people’s cars, as well as buy them if you really like it. An interesting feature to check out.

Overview

Altogether, Midnight Club: Los Angeles is an excellent racing game that I would recommend to any fan of the genre. It can be frustratingly difficult, but has good overall gameplay that will keep you busy for a long time. Excellent graphics and gameplay make this one of the best racing games on the market right now.

***UPDATE*** – It seems Rockstar Games has just released an update for Midnight Club: LA which makes it less difficult! Apparently, the update will make the first third of the game or so easier for beginners to advance further into the game, forcing the AI (artificial intelligence) cars to make more mistakes. Advanced racers, however will probably not see much of a change, since the game implements a dynamic racing structure that depends on your skill level.

Available for:

Disclosure: Writer was provided a copy of the game by Rockstar Games for purposes of review

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